Large, comfortable wooden double bed worth less than 4000 rubles. Is this possible? Of course, maybe! We need a minimum set of tools, pine boards, screws and wood oil. Convenient can be cheap. I made a bed whose cost is not more than 4000 rubles often told me something like: “If we had such tools or such equipment, then we would also do a lot of things!” In my arsenal there are a lot of tools that I use in work. But in this case, I would like to show how to make a good bed, using only the most necessary of them. Materials and tools
- Japanese drank
- Shurovyrt
- The square
- hammer
- Slop
- Brash machine
- clamps
- Grinding paper (sandpaper)
For work, you will not need a complex tool. We will go around the minimum
- Self -tapping screws 35 mm, 16 mm, Kreg 38, Kreg 51
- galvanized corner 40x40x80x2 mm 4 pcs
- boards 3 m 40×95 mm 1 pc
- boards 3 m 20×95 mm 1 pc
- boards 3 m 145×20 mm 6 pcs
- boards 3 m 45×20 mm 13 pcs
Wood was bought at the nearest construction store. The choice fell on a pine tree Why did I choose a pine tree? Because from it you can buy ready -made boards of the desired section. No need to fugue, flight, dissolve, but only saw off the blanks of the desired length. But wood from construction stores is most often unimportant. It took me about 2500 rubles for lumber. Dry wood is advisable to check. A raw can “story” over time and although the appearance of the pine is slightly inferior to solid wood of wood, it has an interesting pattern that manifests itself well during decorative processing. The work of the work is collecting the frame. Let’s start with a 40×95 mm board. We cut it off for the legs. We should get 2 elements with a length of 910 mm and 2 – 410 mm each. Bulletes for legs from a 45×20 mm board will make a perimeter of the bed and a couple of blanks for the headboard. Since the factory cut of the workpieces is not very even, I will handle the workpieces with a manually Japanese saw. The peculiarity of such a saw is the presence of very small cloves and their “irresistence”. Such a saw gives a beautiful thin cut. The end blanks of the Japanese saw The following details of the frame: 200 cm and 165 cm. We made them from boards with a cross section of 145×20 mm. The blanks for the frame will also prepare the details on which the river bottom of the bed will rely, the element for the support of the rails and the rack. The stand will be attached to the support in the center of the bed. It is needed for more reliability. 1. Two sidewalls on which the rack bottom will be based; 2. The beam in the middle, which will take part of the load, all the ends and rough surfaces should be fabbed. Also soften the edges of the details. Using self -tapping screws, we fasten to the longitudinal walls of the rack frame, on which the river bottom will rely. I fix the support for the rack bottom to fix the legs to the bed, I used the corners that will give stiffness in the diagonal direction, and in some places I attached the details “on the oblique screw”. We assemble the structure using corners and mounting “on a slanting screw”, I highly recommend buying a conductor for mounting “on an oblique screw”. It will come in handy for you more than once the legs of the bed protrude above the frame by 1 cm. We make the appropriate marking and fasten the parts to the base of the frame. We connect all the details of the skeleton of the bed. I collect the details at the head of the head with a slanting screw and a corner, at the wear of the windows – only on a slanting screw. I collect the frame of the frame is ready to try on the rack bottom. From the moment the work began, 6 hours passed the bed frame with tick oil right on the spot. I branded boards for the head of the head to emphasize the active woody pattern. I use nylon brushes for this. As a result, we get a surface ready for coating with a decorative composition. She did not dust in the apartment. I branded the boards for the heading on the street I connect two boards with each other “on the oblique screw” and fix it on the frame. I connect the head of the bed and the legs of the bed. The finished frame is covered with oil. The rhecky bottom of the bars of 45×20 mm make the river bottom of the bed. Some questions arose here regarding reliability, so I decided to reduce the step between the slats and laid an additional board at the head. I didn’t have to buy anything, as the wolves in the design of the tenderfills came in handy. At the edges of the rail, we fasten on self -tapping screws, we fix in the center the ribbon. Why can’t you use self -tapping screws everywhere? It is believed that with such a fixation, the bed will creak. We will not take risks. The rails were not covered with oil, I think that we put the mattress to anything. The design turned out to be reliable. It looks pretty. In addition, I managed to save decently. Want the same bed? Watch a detailed video instruction. Other publications of our site that may interest you:
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