How to attach a bathroom to a ready -made country house

by decoredhome.com



Not so long ago it was believed that the amenities in the courtyard of the cottage are normal. But today I want to live in comfortable conditions not only in my apartment, but also in a country house. That is why we decided to build a frame extension, and equip the shower and toilet there. The shower in the country turned out to be no worse than in a city apartment, water in our site only from a summer water supply, so our stay in the country lasts from May to the first frosts in October. In spring and autumn, we use electric convectors to create a comfortable temperature. To build a heating system, erect a stove, and we did not plan to arrange a source of water intake, as well as to use a cottage for year -round residence. In these circumstances, the idea to attach a bathroom seemed good to us. And for the organization of drain drainage, we acquired the Topas sewer station. The design of the extensions of equipment was located along the entire extension parallel to the wall of the house adjacent to it. Part of the wall goes beyond the main building, a small window was installed in it at an altitude of about two meters, which we use to ventilate the shower. In sunny weather, the light coming from the window is quite enough. The dimensions of the premises were planned so that it was comfortable using them. The entrance to the shower is from the extension, and to the room of the toilet – from the vestibule (Fig. 1). So that the front door does not burn out the vestibule, they made it sliding. This decision made it possible to increase the area of the shower by reducing the distance between it and the toilet, and make this opening less than the width of the door. Rice. 1. The extension scheme for the shower and the toilet was erected by frame technology, and the walls of plumbing premises were also completed (photo 1). At the same time, the thickness of the insulation of the internal walls is 5 cm, and the external ones, which go out into the street, – 10 cm. As a heat insulator, a stone cotton wool was used, which also serves in the design of the internal walls as sound insulation (photo 2). From the inside, the walls were sheathed with lining and covered with a transparent azure. The floor of the extension was also insulated with cotton wool, but already in three layers. As a black floor, a fifty -fifty -plated board was used. The surface was treated several times with an antiseptic, well dried and painted. The coating turned out to be rough, but taking into account the subsequent laying of tiles, this turned out to be a plus. The interior of the plumbing premises also finished with tiles. It was already necessary to put it on drywall, so this work did not require much effort and time. But with the installation of tiles on the floor, I had to tinker. Photo 1. The frame of the internal walls was collected from bars with a cross section of 40×50 mm. The room was finished with sheets of moisture -resistant drywall. Photo 2. Walls going out into the street were insulated with two layers of stone wool. Photo 3. Paul boards were reinforced using nails and wires. We did not dare to lay it immediately on the boards, although prepared in advance. To enhance the adhesion of the glue with the base, the nails were filled into boards and pulled a wire between them. Nails with wide hats were not clogged to the end, so that the nail hat protrudes over the surface of the board about half the thickness of the tile glue substrate (photo 3). It turned out a “reinforced foundation.” In the toilet, the tile was put in a classic direct way. The width of the toilet room (100 cm) was calculated in advance for finishing with tiles, so it was not necessary to cut it: three tiles of 33 cm plus seams and gaps against the wall (photo 4). In the shower lining, the floor was made diagonally (photo 5). This work demanded not only special accuracy, but also the presence of a good tile cutter. Photo 4. The cladding of the toilet. Photo 5. Laying tiles in a shower installation of a shower tray enameled by a steel shower tray has always caused us distrust. For some reason, it seemed that he would bend underfoot. Therefore, the frame, under it was built from the same “fifty.” The upper part of the base was filed with an electric rhuban so that the sides of the plumbing were reliably settled on it. The boards were then painted again. A sheet of rigid insulation was put under the pallet. Self -tapping screws were twisted into the boards and secured a wire in the form of a grid for reinforcement (photo 6). The adhesive composition was laid out on top of the wire, and covered with polyethylene. The next day, a plastic film was removed, a wooden base and the seized glue were smeared with sealant, and then the equipment was installed (photo 7). But before the final installation, they did not forget to do grounding. Photo 6. The frame for installing a shower tray. The wire was fixed on the hats of self -tapping screws. On the right in the corner left a place to install a siphon. Photo 7. Installation of the pallet. The lower row of tiles was mounted at an angle so that the water, flowing from the wall, fell into the pallet. Protection against overload, since the load on the electric network has increased, there was a fear that with the boiler, an electric convector and a washing machine turned on, the protection could no longer withstand. We realized that it is impossible to keep the boiler constantly on, so we made only one outlet in the shower. Of course, at the same time to wash and heat the water now it will not work, but there will be no overload. Text and photo: A. Zavodskov



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